Posts Tagged ‘plants’

What To Do In The Garden For January

Wednesday, January 6th, 2010

In Northern United States and Canada

Now is the time to check out seed catalogs and online along with placing orders. Early in the month sow seeds of Clarkia, Godedia, Larkspur, Stocks and other annuals for Spring bloom in the greenhouse. Toward the end of January sow in the greenhouse Wax Begonias, Lobelias, Vinca roses, Delphiniums and Pansies for Summer bloom outdoors…

Remove pots of bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Daffodils and Tulips, that are to be forced for early bloom, a few at a time, from the cool basement or sand bed outdoors where they have been rooting, and bring them into the greenhouse or house. Shade them for the first few days and give them lots of water at all times. Keep them cool at first; increase the temperature gradually.

As soon as dormant potted Amaryllis bulbs show signs of life, remove a little of the old surface soil, replace with rich new soil, water thoroughly and place the pots in a warm, light location in the greenhouse or house. Pot new Amaryllis bulbs in well-drained pots of fertile sandy soil.

Tips On Backyard Vegetable Gardens

Sunday, October 11th, 2009

People plant vegetables gardens in their back yards for two reasons, either because they feel an urge to till the soil and produce food for themselves and their families or because they have discovered that only by raising their own vegetables can they enjoy superlative flavor, succulence, nutritive value and healthfulness.

Undoubtedly vegetable gardens are occasionally started because the racks of colorful seed packets displayed in all sorts of stores every spring arouse a temporary enthusiasm to “dig and delve,” but such gardens usually deteriorate rapidly as soon as the weather becomes hot enough to spoil the fun. In the rare cases when such gardens are faithfully cultivated throughout the season, it becomes obvious that they were actually planted for the first reason mentioned.

Unless you really want to eat better vegetables than you can ordinarily buy, there is not much sense in saddling yourself with a back yard vegetable garden. There are easier ways to obtain outdoor exercise or to satisfy an urge to growing plants in containers or in a garden.

How to Care for Your Flower Garden

Saturday, October 10th, 2009

Knowing how to care for your flower garden can make a big difference in the look and over-all health of your plants. Here are some simple hints to make your garden bloom with health

1. The essentials must always be given major consideration.

Your flower garden must have an adequate supply of water, sunlight, and fertile soil. Any lack of these basic necessities will greatly affect the health of plants. Water the flower garden more frequently during dry spells.

When planting bulbs, make sure they go at the correct depth. When planting out shrubs and perennials, make sure that you don’t heap soil or mulch up around the stem. If you do, water will drain off instead of sinking in, and the stem could develop rot through overheating.

2. Mix and match perennials with annuals.

Perennial flower bulbs need not to be replanted since they grow and bloom for several years while annuals grow and bloom for only one season. Mixing a few perennials with annuals ensures that you will always have blooms coming on.

3. Deadhead to encourage more blossoms.

Seed Feed And Weed For Lawns

Friday, October 9th, 2009

Selecting Stock Plants - September is a good time to begin making cuttings for starting next year’s plants. Lantana cuttings should be made from seasoned wood before any lush growth occurs after the fall rains. If the cutting wood is soft, the cuttings will rot or blast instead of developing roots. The colorful Jacob’s coat (Alternanthera) can be kept as cuttings over winter as can other types of herbaceous plants such as hibiscus, geraniums, coleus, ice plant, sultana and wandering Jew. By September, these plants are conditioned properly for taking of cuttings.

Roses - The cool nights of September will stimulate new growth for a lush crop of bloom during early October. This means the last application of fertilizer should be made this month. Light liquid feedings will be very beneficial, or you may use your own pet brand of commercial fertilizer or rose food. Cottonseed meal is a wonderful food and should be used at the rate of one-half teacupful per plant and worked in lightly around each plant. Heavy watering should follow so that the rose plant may absorb the food. Throughout our section, the quality of fall roses often surpasses that of spring blooms, even though they are usually fewer in number. In watering, keep the water off the foliage and do not water after mid-afternoon in order that the plants can go into the night with surfaces dry. The usual disease and insect pests are prevalent during this fall season, so be on constant guard to protect these plants.

Non Transplant Color - Starting Your Flowers In The Open

Tuesday, October 6th, 2009

Purple AnnualsWhen weather conditions are favorable flower seeds can be sown outdoors. The topsoil should be raked level and all stones, clods, and roughage raked from the seed bed. Make sure that the topsoil is raked thoroughly so that it is quite fine and into- this sow the seeds in drills. Cover the seeds not more than three times their depth and firmly light. Water with a fine spray. Thin the young seedlings when large enough and cultivate. Those that are thinned out can be transplanted along the row or to some other part of the garden.

A few flowers due to the nature of their root system are not adapted” totransplanting, however, as a general use most kinds will transplant without difficulty.

For the purpose of simple classification Flowers are divided in three groups; Annuals, Perennials and Biennials.

Annuals flower the first season, ripen seed, then die. As a rule Perennials blossom the second year from seed and thereafter continue to live for an indefinite number of years. Biennials as a rule require two years to blossom. They are short lived after that time.

Plant Perennials And Biennials

Sunday, October 4th, 2009

Just Joey Hybrid Tea Rose (Rosa) 'Just Joey' AGM MHardy Perennials

Unlike annuals, perennials are more or less permanent, flowering annually from the same plants, and do not require to be resown or replanted each season. Seedling perennials, as a general rule, are more vigorous than plants propagated by means of divisions, cutting, etc. They need a longer period of growth to come to maturity than do the annuals, and may be sown from early spring to early autumn, according to their various requirements.

A fairly rich and well prepared seed bed should be made in a sheltered and sunny position, and the seed sown thinly in drills, watering the drills before sowing if the soil is dry.

As a rule, no further watering is necessary, but should a dry spell set in when the plants are tiny like the dwarf banana, it is wise to water them as they need it. Keep free from weeds and pests, and when large enough to handle transplant them carefully to a bed. In October, or alternatively in early spring, according to the size of plants and weather and soil conditions, move them to their permanent quarters.

Peonies Planting Placement

Monday, September 28th, 2009

Peonies are one of the backbone perennials for the hardy flower border. Large plantings achieve a glorious panorama of beauty. Hedges of peonies may be very effective. They are also good when used as borders in the vegetable garden. Because of their splendid summer foliage they are frequently used in foundation plantings around the house.

Planting Time

September and October are usually considered the best months of the year for planting new peonies or dividing and replanting old ones and also guzmania bromeliad plant. If roots have been dug in the fall and properly stored during the winter, they can be planted in the spring with good results, but are not so likely to bloom the first year as are those which were planted early enough in fall to make considerable new root growth before cold weather. Guzmania bromeliad plant and other plants do best in full sun but will tolerate a little shade. Poor results may be expected where peonies are planted near selfish trees or shrubs which crowd the plants and take for themselves the moisture and plant food rightfully belonging to the helpless peonies.

July Garden Calendar

Friday, September 25th, 2009

In Northern United States and Canada

From now on garden wastes will become available. Stems and foliage of crops that have been harvested, annual weeds that are hoed off and raked up and later leaves fallen from trees are examples of this material. Unless it harbors pests or diseases that are carried over in the soil, these wastes can be turned into valuable fertilizing and soil conditioning compost by piling it in a suitable bin or heaping in an out-of-the-way corner and allowing it to decay. Greenwood leafy cuttings of a great many shrubs, trees and perennial herbaceous plants, including ground covers, taken in July root readily.

Now that the weather is warmer, raise the cutting height of the blades of the lawn mower so that the grass is cut not less than two inches high. Apply selective weed killers and practice hand weeding to eliminate Crab Grass and other lawn weeds. Lift and divide bearded Iris shortly after they are through blooming. Toward the end of July Siberian Iris may be treated in the same way. Iris of these types normally require this treatment every three or four years.

Now Is The Time For Fall Plant And Divide Perennials

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

At Phoenix PerennialsToo many gardeners are puzzled by seemingly contradictory directions regarding the proper time for the planting and dividing of perennials. They are led to understand that some perennials are best planted in the spring and others in the fall. But how can they distinguish them so as to re-member which are which? The more they read about them, the greater appears to become the confusion. And, especially if they read English gardening books on the subject, they are likely not only to be confused but to be led into serious errors.

This last statement, which may sound unpleasant to many ears, is actually based on the crux of the whole problem. Certainly no one in his right senses would imply that our cousins across the great water, who are justly famous for their gardening skill, do not know what they are talking about. However, the directions which they give, based on generations of experience, apply to England. In most parts of North America, however, very different climatic conditions prevail, and therefore. English practices when applied here must be modified accordingly.

Second Spring Planting Season

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

spikyThis is confusing to transplanted Easterners, who find it hard to realize that gardening is carried on twelve months of the year in many areas.

The main tasks are to get those seeds of perennials and biennials planted right away, order the spring bulbs; kill the weeds and carry on routine fertilizing of begonias, chrysanthemums and fuchsias. Don’t give up the fight against pests and diseases either. However, it is the seed sowing and the bulb planting that make August the opening month of the second planting season.

While a long list of dependable biennials and perennials could be recommended, these are particularly useful: columbine, English and Shasta daisies, coreopsis, penstemon, sweet William, Iceland and Oriental poppies, salvia, campanula, thalictrum, delphinium and wallflower. The wallflower, by the way, does not take kindly to the heat of Southern California and Arizona.


Apply an organic liquid fish fertilizer to encourage the production of roses for the fall season. Keep a mulch on the rose beds until winter, when it can be either worked into the soil or, if this is likely to bury the roots too deep, removed. Be extremely careful about using an oil spray during very hot weather.