Posts Tagged ‘internet’

How To Build And Maintain A Garden With Little Money

Sunday, August 9th, 2009

Gardens are expensive. At least, they are initially when you are buying all of the supplies needed to build it, maintain it, and harvest the fruits of your labor. Don’t frown just yet, you can still have your cake and eat it to. Cutting costs in building a garden is easy so long as you know your way around the gardening world.

The first step is to design your garden. If you are completely new to the world of gardening, be prepared to take in a lot of information at once! You can get free books and audio discs regarding the subject at your library if you have a pass. Otherwise you can use the Internet to find free websites or magazines that will give you the help you need during the planning stage.

Think about where you could go to buy a plant. Odds are you thought of your local nursery or garden center. This is usually the worst place to go, since the prices are steeper than what you would pay elsewhere. The only benefit they have is that they have a large variety, and also have large discounts for products that are out of the current season.

Orchid Polythene

Sunday, March 22nd, 2009

Although a humidifex will greatly assist in keeping up the humidity, particularly during the summer months when the humidity is lost through the open ventilators, it is nevertheless no substitute for manual damping-down, which should also be done whenever possible. One humidifex such as illustrated would be sufficient for a To x 8 ft (3 x 2.5 m) greenhouse, or one room indoors.

It should be placed near the floor, below the plants, to allow the cool vapour to reach the plants standing above. Within a few weeks of introducing a humidifex into the greenhouse or home you should see a noticeable increase in aerial root activity on your orchids.

These days of high fuel costs the most expensive item required in determining an orchid collection in the northern hemisphere is the Ming. Prevention of heat loss is the aim of every grower, and insulation of the greenhouse will make a great saving on fuel.

Information Orchid Root System

Sunday, March 22nd, 2009

Plants within the genus Cattleya and related genera produce some of the most extensive root systems of any orchids. Their roots are thick and fleshy, and it is not unusual for a specimen to produce So per cent ofits root system outside the pot. Roots like this can be fed to great advantage. This plant can be repotted and the roots trimmed to about 6 in (15 cm), or left outside the pot.

Only occasionally is a single old leaf shed, their lifespan being for many years. The plant grows from a downward-creeping rhizome and the large green flower emerges from inside the base of the leaf. In cultivation the pendent habit should be retained and regular spraying essential.

All orchids produce roots. There are basically two kinds: aerial and underground. The root structure of orchids is peculiar to them, and all their roots are of a uniform thickness which does not increase with age. The roots will branch, in some species freely. All consist of a central wiry thread which is surrounded by the fleshy, moisture- retaining, part which in turn is coated by the white papery covering, the velamen, which grows as the root extends, leaving only the green growing tip exposed.

Grouping Plant in a Pot

Sunday, February 22nd, 2009

Before leaving the subject of group planting sphagnum moss should be mentioned as a possible plunging material. Moss of this kind has many advantages, not least the fact that it is light, clean and easy to handle, and that difficult plants seem to do particularly well when plunged in it. Recalling my personal. experience with the success of a difficult plant may help to emphasise the advantages of this material.

There are many beautiful dieffenbachias available, the majority of which are a little difficult to care for; Jenbuchia Pia can be among the most troublesome. The main difficulty is that the leaves contain very little chlorophyll, being almost entirely creamy white in colour.

This in itself makes it a very fine plant for exhibition work, and it is especially useful and attractive when incorporated with blue saintpaulias. On the nursery no one was very keen to be given charge ofgreenhouses containing D. Pia, as the chances of success were not particularly good.

Fertilizing Your Plants

Tuesday, December 30th, 2008

A great deal of money is spent each year on fertilisers, some of which I am sure would be better invested in buying compost bins. I use a balanced feed as a complement to the organic mulch, not as a substitute for it.

Possibly the safest general feeds are those based on organic substances which in addition to feeding have no detrimental effect on soil texture. The release of the nitrogen, phosphates and potash takes place over a long period so that very little is lost by the plant through being leached away in soil drainage.

The spray advised for the blackfly will control them also. Indeed, it seems that there is a spray for everything likely to infest the garden from aphids to stray cats and dogs. Choose thosc which will only kill the pest or in the case of domestic animals repel them. Red spider mite may cause damage on dwarf conifers but can be controlled with malathion or similar chemical. Tortrix, sawfly and other caterpillars are rarely a problem. Derris and soft soap is a sufficiently potent repellent.

Gardening Tips

Monday, December 29th, 2008

I always buy the best tools which available funds permit, especially when it comes to secateurs and pruning saw, but the best is not always the most expensive. Find out which secateurs the nearest professional is using, then buy those. A good knife is something no eardener is ever without. I have one purchased many years ago which will give me a lifetime service.

A good spade must head the ,fist and a garden fork will also be needed practically from the beginning to deal with perennial weeds and in helping to break down the soil before planting. A round- pronged, general-purpose fork gives me the best service.

The first rains of winter will soon discover any defects in the drainage. If water stands in puddles round the rose beds or on the lawns it may be that the existing drains are blocked or damaged.

Into the bottom fork a generous dressing of whatever organic matter is available. Those living in a town will find a mixture of coarse bonemeal and peat the cleanest to handle. A further dressing mixed with the top spadeful leaves a beautifully worked soil into which the roots can penetrate freely.

Rootstocks of Garden Plants

Thursday, December 25th, 2008

The cambium is a thin layer of tissue composed during the growing season of actively dividing cells. Only these cells of both the scion and rootstock are capable of joining one to the other into an indissoluble whole.

Prepare the stocks for budding by clearing the soil away from around the base of the stem and wipe the exposed area clean with a moist cloth. Make a cross cut on the prepared surface, then an upward cut to meet it, drawing with the knife blade a letter T. The bark should lift easily with the knife handle if the stock is fit to bud. Remove the bud by starting a slanting cut one inch below the chosen bud and coming at the same distance above. The shield can be trimmed to size after insertion.

Where the T-shaped cut is made depends on what type of tree is required. If a bush form is wanted then the cut is made 4 in. above soil level but with half or full standards from three to six feet of clean stern must be left. The bark is lifted, the bud inserted and bound exactly in the manner described for roses.

Garden Trees

Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008

Not all gardens can support the bulk of forest trees, yet it is still feasible to achieve a very satisfactory winter landscape in miniature. Various forms of Japanese Maple, Acer palmatum, even grown in pots will soon develop the mushroom-like, slightly windswept outline which makes them excellent plants for the heather or rock garden.

Sixteen years ago I planted a few specimens of the arboreal alpine to add height to a corner of the heather garden. Now the plants 4 ft. high and the soft green foliage on erect is seen in contrast to the bare branches of the birch woodland beyond adding a touch of some green to the inhospitable winter scene.

Conifers make all the difference to a winter escape. There are varieties of all sizes from use suitable for growing in a window-box to the largest suitable for property many acres in tent. Remember, however, that it is easy to err plant and render the landscape formless. All mention only two groupings as examples of hat for me are meant by garden silhouettes. The groupings like so many other garden features are with one shrub, a specimen of Chamaecyris pisifera plumosa, conical in outline and with very green foliage.

Chilies Cytology and Genetics

Monday, December 22nd, 2008

Cytoplasmic male sterility in Capsicum was discovered by Peterson (1958) and can now be used for producing hybrid seed.

Popova (1973) states that the heterosis effect in pepper is manifested in the early ripening of the fruits, increased yield in most cases, larger embryos, lower flower abscission, higher degree of uniformity of fruits, better germination of the seeds which are heavier, and better adaptation to adverse conditions.

Bees and ants visit the flowers. Both self- and cross-pollination occur, the latter being about 16 per cent (Purseglove, 1968). Aiyadurai (1966) states that the extent of natural cross-pollination in chillies in India was :found to be as high as 58 to 68 per cent. Padda and Singh (1971) found that the majority of chilli flowers open between 5 and 6 a.m. Pollen shedding takes place at 9 a.m. and continues until 11 a.m. The best time for hand-pollination was 10 a.m. on the day that the flower opens and gives the highest fruit set.

Budding and Grafting Garden Plants

Sunday, December 21st, 2008

A polythene sleeve, made by slitting a suitably sized bag along the bottom, is then slipped over to enclose the wound and firmly bound at the base with electricians’ tape. Pack moist sphagnum around the wound then seal the top of the bag. By moist I mean that a handful of the moss when squeezed just oozes water. To make certain the weakened stem does not break I tie the whole contraption firmly to a cane.

Not all are so obliging and must be helped in a small way. This process is known as layering and the main requirements are patience and a soil in good physical condition. A few weeks prior to layering work in a liberal quantity of peat and sharp sand around the selected plant.

Where only a few cuttings are required which do not justify the expense of a small propagating unit, a polythene bag and a 5-in. pot will provide an alternative. I use pumice or sand as the rooting medium, filling the pot to within i in. of the rim.