The Gardeners Way Make the most of your garden at Garden Way Tue, 18 Jan 2011 00:58:02 +0000 en hourly 1 8 Eco-Friendly Ideas For Your Home & Garden Tue, 18 Jan 2011 00:58:02 +0000 Marcela 8 Eco-Friendly Ideas For Your Home & Garden is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


Gardens are wonderful places to spend a summers day and yet surprisingly many features in a garden are not as green as they could be. Implement these 8 elements when designing your home patio or garden.

  • Wildlife. You might be surprised, as habitat loss increases, private gardens are increasingly becoming an important site for wildlife. Encourage wildlife into your garden.There there are a huge number of ways you can do this. From building a pond to eliminating your use of nasty chemicals in the garden will all help wildlife to survive and thrive. Avoid over feeding wildlife so they retain their natural ability to find food sources.
  • Compost. Placing mulch onto your soil in the form of grass clippings, chopped bark and or will all help to reduce water loss from your soil and also help to reduce the number of weeds which grow in your garden.  The real eco-friendly gardeners will  leave an area of their garden empty so that wild plants that are blown in on the wind have a place to grow. Make a compost heap from unwanted scraps and foliage. Use this to fertilise your garden.
  • Weeds. Try to avoid chemicals wherever possible. Manual weeding can be time-intensive and if you plant carefully you should be able to avoid the need for pesticides and herbicides. Allow natural Australian weeds that flower to grow. Some weeds can be used for very easy and beautiful gardens. Plant ground covering plants to make it difficult for unwanted plants to grow.
  • Watering. Water only in the cooler hours of the morning or evening to minimise evaporation. Water directly at the base of plants for better absorption. Water on leaves can cause more damage when the sun appears. Introduce a watering system that takes advantage of slope. Add small dams to collect water in your garden. Use rubber hoses that introduce water into the ground of your garden.
  • Water recycling (bio-cycle). Using all the water in your home is a must. Bio-cycle systems take all waste water, including sewerage and make it clean again. Perfect for many uses. A small price to pay for cleaning and re-using nature’s gift.
  • Rain water tanks. A must for any eco-friendly home. Save water from building structures. Combined with a bio-cycle your home can be off the water utilities system. What a better way to have water and save it too.
  • Solar power collection and usage. Use solar power where possible for lights, electric fences and power electric mowers and other tools around your home. Garden maintenance can consume a lot of power damaging the environment even if it some where else.
  • Right plants. The more drought tolerant a plant is, the less water it will require, so take some time to ask at your local nursery about plants that virtually look after themselves and require minimal, or no, watering. Use native species as many of them grow and are adapted to the local climate. There are a huge range of native Australian plants that provide nectar to attract native bees and still consume little water.

Don’t limit your eco-friendly ideas to your garden, integrate what you can do into your home. Sky-lights and the use of simple solar collectors are a great way to power light needs in your home, on your veranda or under your carport. Do the right thing and save money at the same time.

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How to Make the Most of Your Backyard this Summer Thu, 13 Jan 2011 06:27:07 +0000 Marcela How to Make the Most of Your Backyard this Summer is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


The backyard is one of the most important parts of the Aussie home. As we increasingly seek out an indoor-outdoor lifestyle, backyards have truly become extensions of our homes. Wooden decks or outdoor tiles create great spaces for relaxing and entertaining that complement lawns and flower gardens for the complete living environment. So, what are you waiting for? Get out there and enjoy your garden. Here a few ideas to help you make the most of — and get the most from — your backyard.


Do you see gardening as a chore? It shouldn’t be. See it for what it is: an opportunity to spend time outdoors, working with nature. Don’t put yourself under too much pressure to create the greatest garden of all time. Just enjoy the therapeutic quality of spending time with your own thoughts and in contact with the earth. Enjoy gardening for the process itself and see the results that you reap as a bonus. You will be surprised what you can achieve.


Share your backyard with your friends and family. In the summer months there is no venue better for a party or gathering than your own backyard. You and your guests will enjoy the fresh air and the warmth of the sun with all the convenience and comfort of being in the home. Barbeques, pool parties and al fresco dinner gatherings are great ways to make sure you are getting the most out of your backyard.


Don’t wait until you have guests to enjoy the outdoor life. Have breakfast with the birds, enjoy a picnic lunch on the lawn and take dinner on the deck. Get into the habit of eating outside; while the weather is good there really is no need to dine indoors. A family meal in the fresh air is a particularly rewarding experience.


You really don’t need a reason to get out and enjoy your backyard; it is a great place for simply relaxing. Grab a book or a newspaper and find a shady spot to kick back and relax. Find somewhere to hang a hammock and you’ll think you’ve gone to heaven.


Investing in some outdoor heating can help you extend the amount of time you spend in your backyard. If the temperature drops when night draws in it is a shame to have to go running indoors. There are many options, from patio heaters to braziers and from chiminea to radiant heaters; find the right solution for you and not only will you extend your evenings, but you might find that you extend the summer and get more use from your backyard all year round.


If you are going to be spending a lot of time in your backyard you want it to be as stylish as the rest of your home, so you need care over its design. Outdoor furniture is a simple way to make a big visual impact with a relatively small investment. Creating defined spaces for different functions is another way to make your backyard visually appealing. A good way of doing this is to use different materials such as outdoor tile and sandstone pavers to create entertaining areas and pathways as well as having lawns and flowerbeds. Keep it simple though; if you have small backyard it is better to have one or two clearly defined areas than a jumble of tiny spaces.

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3 Great Tips And Tricks To Avoid Pool Maintenance Wed, 29 Dec 2010 07:16:28 +0000 Marcela 3 Great Tips And Tricks To Avoid Pool Maintenance is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


There is nothing like having your own swimming pool. I can stay in the water for hours. I love the beach, and water parks are fun, but there is nothing quite like the privacy and intimacy of a private swimming pool. The second thing that comes to anyone’s mind when they think about having their own swimming pool, unless you want to opt out and and have a pool cleaner take care of this for you, is the work involved. I have a rain water swimming pool in a rural and tropical area, which potentially means a great deal of algae, and so if anyone knows how to avoid hours of work, then it is me. Read these handy tips for maintaining your swimming pool and it will be a breeze…

1. Get a pool cover.

Your pool will probably not used for at least half of the year even if you live in a more tropical environment. Covering your pool for half of the year will save your hours of time and money when you do go to use it. A cover has drastic effects on your pool maintenance. Firstly it will stop debris and a huge source of algae. Secondly it will limit the sunlight the stagnant water is exposed to and reducing the growth of algae. Thirdly and just as importantly it will reduce the amount of evaporation – and if you live like I do, not on the water mains and only off the land, then you will really understand the importance of water conservation. I made my pool out of a used truck tarpaulin which I got for practically nothing at a local dump. Cut to size with the addition of fasteners it was ready to go.

2. Know your basic pool chemistry.

This is not nuclear science but it still is a little science. For chlorine to be effective you need to have your pH balance between 7.2 – 7.6. Essentially all you need to keep your pool clean is 3 readily available products. Soda ash to raise your pool pH, so that your pool chlorine will be effective, and an anti-clouding formula. Remember once your pool is sparkling clean the first time, if you manage your pH and regularly dose your pool with chlorine, your work time on your pool will be greatly reduced. When first cleaning your pool for the season, heavily dose the pool with soda ash and chlorine. After several hours of running your filtration system add your your anti-clouding formula and let the pool settle for a minimum of 12 hours or longer if you wish. All instructions are on the packets and a child could do it, however, these are strong chemicals and I do not advise a child to do this without adult supervision.

3. Get a big pool pump.

There are times in life when bigger is better. When it comes to your cleaning system this could not be more appropriate. Just get one that is slightly bigger than the recommended for the size of your pool. The advantage is well worth it and the difference will be very obvious. Continuing from above, once you have let the water settle, you will need to vacuum the dead algae from the bottom. A strong pump will also give you great vacuum suction. The trick is to not disturb the gunk that has gathered, one time and ever so slowly vacuum the pool. After which run your bigger is better filtration overnight and you will be done.

I have only used my vacuum twice so far despite being a good 6 weeks into the season. Regularly manage the chlorine and pH. Most of the time if I am involved in my swimming pool it is because I am drinking a colourful cocktail by it or washing away those summer blues. Get one of those crawling automatic cleaners and there is little left to do. Follow my steps above, and if you still cannot own a swimming pool and enjoy it, I can only suggest you seek professional help.

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Growing Climbing Roses – My Easy Guide Tue, 16 Nov 2010 02:01:58 +0000 Kor Rassad Growing Climbing Roses – My Easy Guide is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


No rose garden is truly perfect without including climbing roses into the mix of rose species. Climbing roses, also recognized as pillars, ramblers, trailing roses, and everblooming roses depending on how they grow are not considered true vines. They don’t grow their own support structures to hold onto surfaces. But they are the ideal decoration to grace any arch, wall or any other structure in and around any garden.

Because climbing roses do not have the capabilities to hold onto structures like vines do, they need help from us. Grower can loosely tie the plant to a structure or wind it through the structure. Some types of structures you can grow climbing roses on are trellis , arbors, fences, sheds, columns, walls or virtually any other big, solid structures. Climbing roses that are educated to grow laterally instead of vertically often produce more blossoms. Vertically trained climbing roses will produce little spines along their main stem or canes which will develop blooms. Besides the direction they grow, growing climbing roses is not unlike growing other types of rose plants. Climbing roses need about 6 to 7 hours of direct unfiltered sunshine a day. Even climbing roses that are said to do good in the part shade still need about four to five hours of direct sunshine a day.

When projecting to grow climbing roses in your garden, take into consideration the height or length that these types of roses will grow to. Some varieties of climbing roses can grow to be around 30 feet in height. Other species can grow to be 7 feet in height. Can the structure that you are planning to grow them on support this type of plant? The elevation of the plant will also depend on the type of climate you have in your area. Another thing to deliberate is which variety of climbing rose is going to suit your garden. Some species of climbing roses are everbloomers which means that they blossom all throughout the growing season. Other types are spring bloomers meaning they only flower in the spring.

One fundamental difference between climbing roses and other varieties of rose plants is that they ask very little pruning. There is no need to trim the plant for the first two years. If climbing roses are trimmed each year similar to other rose plants, the opposite will happen to the climbers; they will develop fewer flowers. Owners can get away with pruning their climbing roses every three or four years. Yet then, trimming comprises of taking away small canes and old or less vigorous canes at the bottom of the plant. Energetic young canes are encouraged to grow and to become long and flexible. Owners will have an easier time training these canes through and onto structures.

The thing to remember with climbing roses is that you have to be patient. They may take a little while to get established and start flowering right after they are planted. But, when they do become established, the aroma and the beauty of their colors are well worth the wait.

Visit for more great tips and advice on Growing Climbing Roses.

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The Partnership Of Vines And Windows Tue, 16 Nov 2010 02:01:34 +0000 Kent Higgins The Partnership Of Vines And Windows is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


Vines and windows just naturally go together; each helps the other to brighten a room and give it a garden air. And most windows are so light and bright, you’re not limited to the trustworthy foliage vines. You can have flowers. And you have a wide, wide variety of vines to choose from. Even a shaded window is the best place to display some sun-loving plant you’ve grown to full flower in other, more suitable quarters.

A single hanging container displayed at eye level – a luxuriant tuberous begonia or fuchsia spilling cascades of glowing flowers; the silver-patterned, plum purple Cissus discolor; or the brilliancy of an ivy geranium – will stop visitors in their tracks. Or use a matching pair of wall brackets, one at each side, to soften the straight lines and sharp corners of the window frame, with a flowering or foliage variety that drifts down or climbs up the casing. Or set a fast-growing specimen like velvety Cissus in an urn on the floor at one side of the window, and let it scramble up cords strung inside the frame.

Use vines to unify and frame a group of potted plants in a window garden, or to tie two or more windows together. Replace an old-time bay window with floor-to-ceiling glass, and arrange plants for an eye-catching focal point in living or dining room. Or install a window greenhouse – ready-made or do-it-yourself – and arrange vines to frame it inside or dangle from the shelves.

When plants are to inhabit a window for some time, select varieties according to the cultural conditions they need and you can provide. There are vines that will thrive in almost any combination of temperature, sunlight or shade, and humidity. Then look for the decorative qualities that suit your setting – size, leaf texture, color, contour, and method of climbing or dangling (some vines will do either or both). Small vines of a delicate nature are best in small windows in small rooms. Rough, pebbly leaves show up best against a smooth wall. The color of flowers should not fight with the wallpaper or rug, or make the area look “busy.”

Above all, try something new and different – the garden annuals, for example. Plant seeds of morning glories or thunbergia in pots, and let them fill or frame the window with flowers. Fill a basket with a sweet potato; or find some of the colorful new tropical foliage vines; or see what you can do with a bougainvillea. Or adapt some of the following suggestions.

Attach a series of brackets of the same design up each side of the window – a different dangling plant in each pot, or all the same variety to connect the containers into one frame.

In a small recessed window of an old farmhouse I saw a quaint garden of potted plants. A made-to-size metal tray on the sill held a layer of moist peat. Small baskets with small-leaved ivies were accents at the side.

Like a “bead curtain,” hoyas will climb cords strung up a sunny window. Ceropegias will look the same, dangling down.

informal composition calls for one vine and container of proper proportion and style at one side of the window. The weight of the untrimmed area at the other side achieves balance.

An airy arrangement of small, softly dangling plants like some philodendrons on shelves set into a high window where stairs turn at a landing is a delightful surprise in an otherwise difficult, drab stairway.

In a large window, hang a “chandelier”–a large basket in the center, and several smaller ones around it.

Create a vertical line with several small baskets strung together, one under the other.

There are plenty of better-known window-garden vines and hanging plants, by also first choose, according to the amount of sunlight the plant needs and you can provide, and then according to other cultural requirements like temperature and humidity.

Kent Higgins frequently contributes to The more you know the better decisions you can make, like the topic of philodendrons.

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Vines For Walls And Other Vertical Areas Tue, 16 Nov 2010 02:01:21 +0000 Keith Markensen Vines For Walls And Other Vertical Areas is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


Restful and easy-to-live-with as they are, vines are not at their best trained haphazardly on a wall – any available wall – the way paintings are often hung to fill an empty space.

The lines of vines are so prominent that using them in a by-guess-and-by-golly manner can cause confusion and even offense. Except for spectacular specimens that become focal points wherever they’re placed, vines are usually most effective used in combination with other plants or items like pictures, mirrors, pieces of furniture.

But used with care, vines can create breathtaking effects against walls, fireplaces, railings of stairs, and other vertical areas. To harmonize and connect a background – the wall – with a table or chair standing before it, hang or train a vine just above the furniture. Stand back and squint at the composition to see if it is balanced. Check the relative proportions of space, to furniture, to plant. Decide whether the shapes are harmonious, whether colors and textures have interesting contrast. Then, congratulate yourself on achieving one of the difficult but most artistic types of interior design.

Or arrange a vine with or around a mirror that reflects the image and doubles the effect. To lower a high ceiling, train a vine horizontally at some point above eye level; try the reverse with vertical lines. Experiment with breaking up a large, bare surface with the line, light, and shadow effect of a vine.

Available variety of suitable vines, of course, depends partly on cultural conditions. Walls are not usually brightly lighted, so foliage vines are used for their fresh greenery and the pattern of leaf, stem, and shadow. Small, slow-growing varieties are out of scale on large walls; massive, heavy vines are too dominant for limited areas. Some clinging vines will climb a smooth wall without support; stem-and tendril-climbers need cord or wire. Take all these qualities into consideration, then take off on one of the following suggestions or a creative idea of your own.

In a living room corner where a rough stone fireplace joins a wall of smooth plaster or paneling, the abrupt change can be softened and the two surfaces blended by a soft foliage vine trained up to the ceiling and across the top of the second wall. Fatshedera would do well here, or some of the climbing philodendrons.

In the bathroom, where the air is moist so it can have guttation in plants, tropical climbers will grow faster and cling tighter even to smooth walls. Try a flat-clinging variety up the side of the shower. In the library or TV room, cut a hole in the top of a bookcase, just large enough to hold a pot by the rim. Provide a plant-to-ceiling support like a thin, straight tree trunk or moss pole, and let several variegated scindapsus cover it with white-splashed, overlapping leaves.

On the fireplace mantel, avoid the trite matching bowls of ivy. Try one large, low, centered container overflowing with nephthytis, or balance a tall candelabra at one end against a low, spreading asparagus fern at the other.

In a contemporary house I know, the wall dividing living room from kitchen stops two feet short of the ceiling. On top, the talented home decorator sets a bowl from which long stems of garden ivy hang down to break up the broad expanse of bare wall. When the ivy fades, she replaces it with potted philodendrons or other foliage vines, sometimes balanced by a bark-mounted staghom fern.

There is much more to explore on the subject of guttation in plants. You’re only a click away –

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Vines Offer Unlimited Opportunities For Decorating Tue, 16 Nov 2010 02:01:10 +0000 Kent Higgins Vines Offer Unlimited Opportunities For Decorating is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


Vines are available in an endless variety of size, texture, color, and form, and they can be trained to any shape, line, or curve. Name the decorative purpose your planting should serve, the effect you want to achieve, and take your choice of suitable vines or hanging plants. For dangling down from the edge of an indoor garden or climbing a piece of gnarled driftwood at the back, there are dainties like the creeping fig or the more luxuriant scindapsus. For a big, bold, masculine effect on the wall of a man’s study or a tropical patio, there are a great number of astonishing philodendrons and monsteras. For airy, lacy shadow effects, there are annuals like the canary-bird vine, succulents like the ceropegias.

For filling the bare space between a tall plant and its planter and relating each to the other, use any number of attractive trailers. For shading or screening a porch or patio, choose heavy-textured vines like the Dutchman’s pipe, lighter types like akebia. For evergreen vines of winter beauty, you can have small-leaved euonymous or handsome ivies; for brilliant fall color, parthenocissus or grapevines. There are dwarf vines and giants; vines with waxy foliage, or subdued and velvety; vines with colorful flowers or berries, or both; those that grow rampant or modest and restrained. There are magnificent climbing roses and clematis; exotic passion flowers and bougainvilleas – and all kinds of trailing plants for hanging baskets and wall brackets.

With such wide, wide variety you have unlimited opportunities for decorating your house and enhancing your grounds and garden. The best approach is to be unlimited – to pass up the usual in favor of your own distinctive taste; to reject the ordinary and strive for the original and striking effect; and most important, to reach out beyond the few familiar vining plants so often seen to the phenomenal number of beautiful vines that are less often known and grown.

Granted, an extensive and varied selection of vines is not always available from seed and plant houses and from nurseries. But here is a situation where demand might increase the supply. If we would ask for a greater variety, even request desired varieties by name, growers would have reason to supply them.

Certain fundamental principles of design are inherent in the decorative use of vines, indoors and out. But they are not unbreakable rules; the words “always” and “never” are not part of the vocabulary. They should be adapted, sometimes even disregarded, in favor of originality and daring.

Here is an important point. Like other arts, landscaping and interior decoration depend primarily on personal opinion and taste. What pleases my eye may not please yours; what appeals to you may “leave me cold.” For me, i like to have zz plant in my house. And every personal preference has interest and decorative value. If this were not true, all homes and grounds would look unbearably alike, and life would be dull indeed.

On the other hand, good design begins with artistic principles that should be known and understood before they can be adapted or disregarded entirely. Following them implicitly will lead you into no error; using them as points of departure may develop your flair for decorating.

Learn more about zz plant today!

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Vines As Garden Accents Tue, 16 Nov 2010 02:01:07 +0000 Thomas Fryd Vines As Garden Accents is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


Walls and fences of all dimensions are erected for any of many reasons – to define property boundaries, to create a center of privacy, to connect two areas or levels, even to break up small areas and make gardens seem larger. Fences can be used in place of trees and shrubs as background for a flower border, with spectacular vines as accent or subdued varieties for subordinate effect. And, of course, there’s nothing like a good-looking fence or wall to obscure unattractive outbuildings, or necessary atrocities like the compost heap.

For fences and walls, again, vines are selected according to available sunlight, moisture, and other cultural considerations – and then according to decorative purpose. If the fence is in itself decorative, the vine should enhance, not smother it. Avoid rampant-growing types and choose, instead, restrained vines with delicacy and charm, and those that can be pruned and trained to shape. For ugly or tottering fences, select a fast, thick covering vine.

On low dividing or retaining walls, let the vine run along the top and tumble down the side – a climbing rose kept trimmed to one cane is extremely effective. Or select a slow creeper, like euonymous, and let it climb the side. Over old country stone walls, native vines – like the native clematis – are in harmony. A brick wall enclosing a formal garden calls for treillage. On small areas, use short-stemmed vines; for large areas, plant long-stemmed scramblers.

Vines as Ground Covers

Many vining or trailing plants will cover banks and keep soil from washing away; or will spread and carpet the ground in shady and other difficult areas. And vines are often the least costly and fastest growing plants for these purposes. But they should be used with caution and kept under control. Some types become serious garden pests. Most efficient for fixing sliding soil and covering steep or rocky banks are the varieties that hug closest to the ground and root at the leaf joints as they spread. Some annual vines can be used as ground covers for quick but temporary effect.

Vines as Garden Accents

These vines are selected for their specimen value – their brilliant, breath-taking flower display, even if only once a year. They are grown on pillars or other uprights in the border, or carefully trained against a background fence or wall.

Accents attract attention to the garden area and to themselves. They should be used sparingly and with regard for their fitness in their surroundings. Selected and placed without plan and design, they can be monstrosities. One accent vine – or two at the most – is plenty for a small or informal garden. A row of pillars can be used in larger, formal landscapes.

Pillars and posts should be in pleasing scale with their surroundings and the vines that cover them. Nonvigorous vines are most appropriate and easiest to control. There are climbing roses, for example, of restrained or “pillar” height; large-flowering clematis and mandevilla trellis plant can be combined with them to prolong the flowering season.

Properly placed and proportioned tree trunks can also be decorated with accent vines. On living trees, however, twiners may circle and strangle branches. Root-clingers are usually harmless and add interest to tall, unbranched trunks. If it has not been treated with creosote, an unsightly telephone pole becomes less offensive with a softening vine.

The majority of garden vines can be used as accent or specimen, if the selection is made with discretion and if careful attention is given to training and pruning.

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Adventure And Enjoyment With A Wooden Climbing Frame Tue, 16 Nov 2010 02:01:07 +0000 Colin Greensands Adventure And Enjoyment With A Wooden Climbing Frame is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


All wooden climbing frame types come with guarantees. There are many available to choose from. Such as some with low levels, some with platforms, and some with towers. Some are indicative of type like, Fort, Barn, Villa, Mansion, Chalet, and Barrack. Also there are the Hut, Club, Cottage, Cubby, Cabin, and lodge.

These wooden frames come in an array of styles. They can be attached to play sets for a fully rounded out gym for your children. Whether you have a small back yard or a large one, or something in between, there is one to fit your needs. These frames can be added to so that they grow with your family, as your family physically grows with them.

It comes as no surprise that the main material in a wooden climbing frame is “wood.” But not just any wood is used for these sturdy and strong climbing frames. Scandinavian wood of the highest quality of either redwood or pine is used. It is prepared with safety in mind and is FSC certified. The wood is kiln dried and smoothed for quality.

These versatile frames are made to attach to swing sets and slides to enhance the overall workout. Your child not only gets to have a lot of fun, but they are painlessly exercising at the same time. No need for concern if it rains as perforated feet allow for drainage and the stakes made of galvanized steel fit snugly and securely in the ground.

The Kingswood low tower can grow with your children from three years old to adolescence. To enhance the size of the Kingswood, remove the roof add the top deck and put the roof back on again. This frame is big, made out of kiln dried Scandinavian pine, and is FSC certified.

The top deck has an enclosed platform with removable sides for open play. Swings and slides can be added for a fully rounded gym. Covered by a lifetime guarantee against rot and rust, this climbing frame will provide years of fun. It also has a ladder on the inside to reach the top deck tower, making it easier for smaller children.

Some are made specifically to fit in a small yard, while others are made to fit in standard to large yards. Whatever your yard size you will find a wooden climbing frame to your liking and that fits your families needs. Some are so big that parents can join in on the fun too!

To magnify this already enormous climbing frame think about adding the ladder, and wooden outpost which lead to additional growth possibilities. This large and unique wooden frame will provide hours of climbing fun. It is made of pine that has been pressure treated, and is FSC certified with a lifetime guarantee against rot and rust.

The wooden climbing frame and kids will grow together with fond memories of childhood in an active and healthy environment. Well made they are durable and built to be long lasting with safety in mind. A wooden climbing frame is great for those just beginning to walk, to being transformed into an expert climber, all happening right before your eyes.

Whatever your yard or garden dimensions are you will obtain a wooden climbing frame to your liking that will your families requirements. Read more at our cheap garden sheds web site.

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Green Landscaping — Designing with Your Heart Tue, 09 Nov 2010 05:33:15 +0000 Marcela Green Landscaping — Designing with Your Heart is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.


Green landscaping is a science which comes with some advantages, and a lot of personal criteria. Green landscapers tend to be very highly motivated, and very demanding of themselves because of their commitments. Green landscapers treat their designs like other people treat their home insuranceEverything must be covered. This is a demanding process, and it can get tough.

The issues

The basic concepts of Green landscaping are very like permaculture. Green landscapes are ecologically structured. They can include soil biota and great attention to natural ecology. They naturally include consideration of soil issues, runoff, species mixes, and a range of other technical issues which could easily fill a large library. As you may have gathered, that means Green landscapes can be difficult concepts to put into practice.

An example of Green landscaping

The most easily explained version of Green landscaping is a “restoration” type of ecological concept, using native plants, etc as the basis of the design. That isn’t necessarily easy in the modern world. Many areas are in a state of ecological flux, and native sources are often in decline. Re-establishing species isn’t straightforward, because they need their local ecology, including insects, etc, to be in working order, and that’s often not the case.

It’s not impossible, however.

A design that works

Even in degraded environments, the Green landscaper has some assets:

  • Climate
  • Soil types
  • Remaining supporting ecology
  • Species affinities for the site

Without getting too technical, these are core assets, and they can be used effectively if the restoration process is also structured. Trying to re-create an ecology takes time, and the stages of reconstruction vary considerably depending on types of environment and ecological mechanics.

Setting up an ecological base involves several basic stages:

  1. Physical landscaping: Restoration may require some reshaping of the land in degraded environments. Soil removal, replacement and/or eco-targeted reconditioning is also usually required.
  2. Restoring drainage conditions: Common in developed areas, this is critical to success, because native plants, insects and microfauna require specific levels of moisture.
  3. Working vegetation to promote soil chemistry and biota: This can be something simple, like the most common plant in the area which is a design component. These plants are the foundations of the area ecology, often keystone species. More to the point, they can be used as site-specific keystone species, which don’t contradict the intended natural ecological profile.
  4. Staged plantings: When the keystone species and environs are in place, the big picture can be painted, and further plantings, physical landscaping, and other processes can take place with no risk to the core biology.  (This also mimics the growth patterns of new trees, etc., and is a trustworthy mechanism for evolving the site and growth habits of the plants.

This is a rather simple depiction of a lot of hard work, but it’s very reliable. If you’re a Green landscaper, using the natural formative processes of the environment is your best option. It’s your “contents insurance” for your design. You can put your heart into your work, and win.

Green Landscaping — Designing with Your Heart is a post from: The Gardeners Way Check out this week's features on Greenhouses and Paving.

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